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Multi-pitch trad rack

Updated: Oct 4, 2023

Like anything, your trad rack is personal. Below will be one of many trad racking posts. I know when I started years ago I was baffled by what I needed. There will be a post regarding single etc. Below however, is a post of a multi-pitch rack that I use generally (changes depending on grade) for block leading (leading multiple pitches at a time because you have a second following). I have made a few edits at the bottom for alternate leads.This isn't a perfect or bomb proof rack but I've found it works. Each image has a link to the product on the cheapest website I could find at the time of writing.


Harness: DMM Renegade - Epic trad harness and my go to harness for long days. Mega comfy, adjustable, rugged, and has many gear loops. 7 gear loops and can withstand a battering...what a workhorse. I found it an odd fit to start but have come to love it.

Helmet: Petzl Meteor - I'm not convinced by the helmet. My second one because I love the fit but the plastic on the sides cracks and peels. Personally, I wouldn't buy this again but the new one may be better... However, you need a lid and as you can see it has had a few hits hence buying another. But its integrity is still intact.




Protection: The bread and butter. This is a multi-pitch rack and does change depending on where I am climbing. 9 times out of 10 this is what I'll take. Size 0 - 5 DMM Dragon Cams plus a size 5 Dragon Fly (I don't take smaller as I won't be pushing the grade as much as a single pitch). Nearly two sets of 1 - 11 Wallnuts plus a couple of spares that I tend to use a lot e.g. purple size 1 and red size 6. I tend to only have one size 10 and 11 as I find I don't use them much. In addition, have half a set of offsets which I finally got around to trying out...they are AMAZING!!!!



Quickdraws: What more do you need to say? You need them. I tend to take 15 or 16 on a multi-pitch - sometimes less if I know the route well. Just depends on the length of the pitches etc. I have 6 extendable' s - if you have the budget I'd have all of them as extendable' s.


Slings: Remember this is for the possibility of you block leading! If you are alternating leads I'd probably only take a single 120cm sling (maybe 2) for anchors. Due to block leading you need to move off from the anchor when your second gets there. So in theory you'll need enough to build two full belays. Therefore, I carry 2x 120cm and 2x 240cm slings. Additionally to this I take 1 or 2 60cm slings to put on spikes etc. as extra protection - however, you could use your extendable quickdraw. I tend to rack my 120cm and 240cm slings around my body witch each attached via a screw gate for easy access, or I attach them on 2x screw gates - 4 is overkill usually.

Metal work: Lets start with the trusty Black Diamond ATC Guide. It works in guide mode which is ideal for block leading and not killing your shoulders and everything you would ever need. Two screw gates on this for guide mode etc. Next screw gates I tend to take 6x with me. I'd always rather have my belays made with screw gates (even though a quickdraw would be fine) so I take 3x for each anchor because generally you'll make an anchor using 3x pieces of kit. Finally, a DMM Boa because they are ace! Obviously we need to make us safe of the belay which will always be a clove hitch into the anchor (generally). Now you don't need a boa for this but it means if you do a rope anchor further up you can fit 3x clove hitches to a boa unlike a normal screw gate. And they definitely look good!

Extras: Never go without two prussik's each! If you need to abseil or rescue or even use the cord for an emergency repel. I tend to take it on a screw gate for racking. A knife (this is less needed) but if you are doing scrambles or grades really pushing your grade it may be worth it to cut cord or rope to make anchors. Finally, the trust nut key. I tend to take 1 between 2 but its up to you.

Alternate pitches: The only change I'd make to this for a multi-pitch climb that was an alternate leading style (you lead every other pitch) - share the screw gates (3x each) and share the slings out as well. You only need to create one anchor so edit your rack to take this into account.




I hope you have found this useful and if you need any help then please get in contact :)

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